Salzburg, Austria

Kirsten and I arrived in Salzburg around 3 p.m. on Sunday. We went to the hotel reservation desk and got a room at Pension Tauernhof (325 ATS per person per night) (15 ATS per person reservation fee). The room was wonderful, with W.C. and a full bath, and it came with breakfast. It was located very close to the old city, and the hostess was born and raised near Boston (Burlington actually).

We had purchased twenty-four-hour farecards from the hotel reservation desk, and this is how we got to the hotel. The pension was far enough away from the train station that we got to see a lot of the town, which has a beautiful river running through it. The buses in Salzburg are nice. They are clean and have extra-wide spaces available for mothers with strollers (and us with our bags). Many are powered by electricity from overhead lines; all are used for “whole-bus” advertising, where the bus is completely covered by the logo of its sponsor. The buses took us everywhere we needed to go and were not nearly as confusing as those of Paris.

The host and hostess were Reinhold and Lynne, respectively. They were very friendly and helpful at suggesting places to eat. The first thing they told us was to stay out as late as we liked … we had noting to worry about. They also took care of our laundry for us (70 ATS) which was a blessing; it came back washed, dry, and folded.

After freshening ourselves, Kirsten and I went into the Altstadt to the restaurant Stern Bräu, which Lynne had recommended.

.. Interruption: We are approaching the Kufstein stop on the train (it is now 12:15 p.m.). This is beautiful area up in the mountains; the clouds (it is finally raining) are not high above our heads. There is a clear river running alongside the tracks and beautiful stone buildings. …

Dinner for me was Schweinebrat mit Salat, which was broiled pork with a cabbage and vinegar-oil salad, with a breaded potato stuffing which actually came on the side. It was excellent: the first of two wonderful pork dinners in Salzburg.

After dinner we spent a long time exploring the Altstadt by foot, with its many monuments splendidly lit. We walked partway up the Festung hill and back down for a view of the city at night. We saw a street-sized chess game being played at Kapitelplatz. Then we got a good nights’ sleep.

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